You've seen the ads on TV: "Add flavor without adding fat! Use Bossy-O chicken stock!" But when you get to the store, Bossy-O costs an arm and a leg, and when you get right down to it, the taste is kind of metallic and thin, isn't it?

Why not make your own? It's not hard. In fact, if you can boil water, you can make stock, because that's all stock is: water boiled with some good stuff in it. And when you make your own stock, you know EXACTLY what's in it. There aren't any chicken lips or cow toes in the stock unless you put them there. And that's all I'm going to say about that.

There are two ways to make stock.

Fancy and time consuming way: buy bony meat parts and some carrots/onion/celery. Brown the bones and the vegetables seperately, load up the stock pot with the browned stuff, some appropriate herbs, add water to cover, and then simmer, skim the foam, simmer, skim, simmer, skim, until you barely remember why you're doing this in the first place. Along the way, check the seasoning, add salt and pepper, de-fat, clarify, and skim, skim, skim. It's going to look, smell and taste wonderful when you get done, and if time was unlimited, I would always have this kind of stock on hand.

Unfancy and easy way, like I usually do: every time you roast a chicken (or anything else, like duck, beef, pork, lamb, fish....), you have browned meat parts. When you're done with dinner, save the good leftover meat for sandwiches and throw the trimmings (bone, fat, gristle, skin, tendons, etc) in a stock pot and scrape what's at the bottom of the roasting pan in there, too. If you have carrots/onions/celery, add some to the pot, roughly chopped. Add enough water to cover everything and bring to a gentle boil, then simmer for about two hours, or overnight if you live somewhere cold and trust your stove on low while you're sleeping. Strain the resulting liquid through a fairly fine sieve into a storage container and cool for a day in the fridge, or until the fat sets up on top. Pull off the little disk of fat and save it seperately (that's another post). You're done. Use now or freeze for later.   

OK, I admit the unfancy way doesn't always have the onions/carrots/celery (unless you always keep some around), the deep flavor that comes from browning vegetables (they still add a lot), the perfectly corrected seasonings (do that when you use the stock), the foam skimmed off (mostly gets strained out anyway), and stock made the unfancy way is usually cloudy, not clear. But, the end result TASTES surprisingly good, and is much much better than the tinny canned stuff from the store. If you're making scratch onion soup for company, you'll probably want to start with beef bones and do all the fancy stuff...and that is its own kind of fun. But for everyday use like enriching sauces and gravies, unfancy stock is the way to go.

Now, about those little disks of fat...especially the duck fat....

Look for the answer to this question on the Internet and you’ll find lots of technical and scientific sites that talk about yield, live weights and dressing percentages. But that’s not what you want, is it? What you want is an easy way to figure out which is a better value when you’re standing in front of the meat counter. Here’s how to do it, using chicken breast as an easy example to get started:

 

Bone-in/skin-on chicken breast is about one-third bone and skin. In round numbers, if boneless breast is $3.00/lb, a rough equivalent for bone-in/skin-on would be $2.00/lb. To figure out which is the best value, start with the boneless price, subtract a third, and that’s what the equivalent bone-in/skin-on price should be. If the bone-in/skin-on costs less than that, it’s a better value. If the bone-in costs more than that, buy the boneless/skinless. 

 

You can do the same thing when it comes to other kinds of meat, too, and you don’t need a fancy formula or a calculator. All you have to do is estimate how much bone there is and use that to figure the costs you will compare.

 

Here’s a rough guideline to give you an idea of the range for different cuts:

 

How Much Bone?

Putting a number on it:

Example Cuts

A Little Bone

A tenth

T-Bone Steaks, Rib Steaks/Roasts, Pork Chops

Medium Bone

A third

Pork Shoulder Steaks/Roasts, 7-bone Pot Roasts, Chicken Breasts/Thighs

Lotta Bone

A half

Shanks, Spareribs, Short-Ribs

 

One more sample run-through, just to make sure you have it, OK?

 

Country style pork ribs can be a good economical cut, and in Seattle, boneless costs about $2.00/lb, so the bone-in ones should cost…how much?

Medium bone. A third (67 cents). Subtract the third  = $1.33/lb….

So, if the bone-in ones are less than $1.33/lb (when the boneless ones are $2.00/lb), they are a better value. Pretty easy to figure out, huh? Now, when you’re standing at the meat case, you know how to evaluate pricing between bone-in and boneless meats!

 

And, yes, there are other considerations on both sides of the bone-in/boneless choice: convenience, using the bones for stock making, more flavor with bones in and so on, but those are all subjects for another day. In this entry, we’ve figured out what the best value is based on price, and we’ll cover those other factors in upcoming posts.....

 

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